Selvedge denim is more expensive to source, slower to sew, and harder to find mills for. We use it anyway, and it’s worth explaining why.
The self-edge finish — the tightly woven band that keeps the fabric from unraveling — is really just a byproduct of the old shuttle looms that produce it. Those looms run narrower and slower than modern projectile looms, which is exactly why the resulting fabric holds its shape and fades more honestly over years of wear.
We’re not precious about it. Our wide-leg trousers use a softer brushed cotton twill because that’s the right fabric for that silhouette. But for a jean meant to be worn hundreds of times, the old, slow way still wins.